Árvero: A True Sorrentino Limoncello

Limoncello is a relatively recent alcoholic Italian creation that began in the region of Campania.  This lemon zest liqueur originated around the Gulf of Naples particularly the Sorrentino Peninsula, Almalfi Coast, and the Isles of Capri, Ischia, and Procida.  Just about every family of those areas had their own family recipe. Soon limoncello became popular throughout Italy and the rest of the world.  As its popularity expanded and as the number of producers increased, the quality became compromised.  Most limoncellos on the market today tend to be cloyingly sweet and unbalanced between the flavor, sweetness, and alcohol.  Like a handful of other local small production distillers, this is what the producers of Arvero wanted to correct.  By following traditional recipes with local ingredients and using artisanal production methods, the makers of Arvero believe they have made a proper limoncello – bright, fresh, and balanced.

Arvero, which means tree in Neapolitan dialect, is the result of a partnership between Diego Rodino di Miglione and Eduardo Fiorillo. Thirty years ago, Diego’s mother purchased a few acres of land around Massa Lubrense, one of the prominent towns that harvest the femminello ovale sorrentino lemons. Because of her love for the scent of these lemons, she planted lemon trees and soon began to make homemade limoncello.  A few years ago, Diego decided to start making limoncello commercially with Eduardo who also owns lemon trees and owns Distillerie Nastro d’Oro (established in 1996) in Termini, a town down the road from Massa Lubrense in the direction of the Sorrentino Peninsula edge.

Here’s how Diego and Eduardo make Arvero limoncello.  The trees have a life span of about 80 years and these particular lemons that they yield have tough, thick skins, are very low in acidity, making them far less sour than other lemons. The lemons are picked twice a year around 6:00am, the most humid time of a Sorrentino day, and must be washed and peeled by 9:00am so that the greatest quantity of natural oils and aromas are still present.  The lemon zests are combined with ethyl alcohol (distilled from molasses) for five days.  The infusion gets filtered four to five times while slowly lowering the alcohol and adding water and sugar which brings it down to about 35% alcohol by volume.

Arvero is made in small production – just a little over 10,000 cases each year. Retail prices in the New York City area range from $20 to $25.  Limoncello is enjoyable neat or in a cocktail. On April 1, 2015,  Arvero received 91 points from Wine Enthusiast magazine.  Arvero is distributed in New York and New Jersey by Vias Imports, Ltd.

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